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The following are some of my favourite rides around Canberra.
The contents are COPYRIGHT: Owen Duffy 1998, 2009. All rights reserved.
At the bottom, there are some further trips partially written.
I figured that I needed one more good alpine ride before the winter road closures and cold weather.
To that end I studied weather maps for a couple of weeks, looking for a mid week day that is going to be warm (20 degrees in the low country), low cloud, and no (or little) wind. By Wednesday, it was apparent that Friday would be a good match, a large high over south eastern Australia holding an approaching wide cold front south over Bass Strait.
This sounds very scientific, it probably is. The weather forecasts can be quite reliable in indicating days that are not going to be pleasant in the mountains. Unfortunately, days that may look potentially good may not eventuate, or can turn bad in half an hour. Mountain weather is fickle, but nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Friday fitted in well with work requirements, so Friday it would be.
Friday morning in Canberra was warm (about 15 degrees), indicating that there had been cloud cover most of the night. The expectation (hope) is that this is low cloud I fog which is thin and will probably will clear by ten or eleven. So with that measure of faith, I headed south at 8:30 into grey and gloom (but relatively warm) for the rather dull run to Cooma. This road is heavily patrolled, and taking a conservative line on retaining my licence, I was overtaken by trucks, buses and cars well over speed limit + 10%.
By Bredbo, hopes are turning to reality. The sky is clearing and it is only 9:30, this is looking good.
By the time I reached Adaminaby which is usually cool, I was sweltering under too much alpine protection. The day was going to be warmer than I had expected, still I can cope with that. One of the facets of riding this country is a wide range of air temperatures, 8 to 28 degrees in an hour is not unusual.
Next, across the top to Kiandra. Traffic is light and the range of road conditions from l00K+ bends down to bends posted with 35K advisory speeds makes the ride entertaining.
From Kiandra, I headed south towards Cabramurra, and then west down to the Tumut river, along the river to the Talbingo Reservoir, and up the mountain to the MacPherson Plains. Brilliant riding, tight winding descent and ascent (close to 1000m). Scenery is magnificent, deciduous trees along the river in fall, breathtaking views of the mountains and the reservoir.
Across the plains to the Tumbarumba road, and then south again to Khancoban in the Murray River valley, sweeping over 200m hills in cleared country with views across the the NSW alps and south to the Victorian high country.
Khancoban pub is a pleasant venue for a relaxed lunch out on the verandah under the pergola draped with grapevines turning red, backlit by the sun, superb autumn colours all about. At 25 degrees it is very warm after around 15 degrees in the higher parts.
The return trip is by the direct road to Cabramurra, a fabulous run climbing over 1000m over a half hour, with a additional descent/ascents crossing the Tooma Reservoir and Tumut Pond dams. The road is good, most of the loose crushed rock from summer road works has been swept from the road, verges neat from pre winter mowing. Again, tight winding steep roads in picturesque forest. There is a certain exhilaration in powering up these winding roads.
A little north of Cabramurra I reached the Elliott Way turnoff that I had taken in the morning. The remainder of the trip retraced the outbound journey. Arriving back home in North Canberra at 18:00 meant 9.5 hours trip time, less about 1.25 hours for lunch and morning and afternoon teas gives a little over B hours in the saddle.
So if you enjoy rugged country, quiet roads, and challenging yourself on roads where you don't have to break the speed limit for excitement, this is a beaut ride in good weather, do try it.
If you read this far, I hope you enjoyed this account. As you can see I am a rider, not a writer! Do read the rest, especially the serious stuff about safety matters.
PS: If you have in mind doing this run before the winter, be especially careful of ice on the Khancoban to Cabramurra section. Although I did not encounter any icy road, I did see evidence on lots of shady corners that they had been frosty or icy in the morning.
PPS: Much of this trip is over remote roads that lack services, do not have advisory speed signs, lack guard railings, and can be ice or snow affected at almost any time of year, and pass through wilderness where wildlife on or crossing roads is a hazard. This is not a place to crash - help could be a long way away.
... BE VERY CAREFUL
Copyright: Owen Duffy 1995.
Having just acquired a new bike which required running-in, I thought a run to Kiama would provide a suitable mix of riding conditions and speeds. It is also getting a bit cold in the High Country, so trips to the coast are more comfortable.
The weather forecast is encouraging, should be a mild to warm late autumn day with clear skies.
Leaving Canberra today at 8:30 when the fog had just cleared, I appreciated the risk of further fog during the next hour or so. Well, as it happens it was on the bad side of possibilities, heavy fog from a couple of Km from home, out through Bungendore, Tarago, Goulbourn, finally breaking near Marulan. Quick cup of coffee here to recover from 140 Km of cold wet fog - should have worn the alpine gear instead of leathers.
From Marulan to Bundanoon and Exeter along the Highland Way, then across to the Nowra Road and on to Fitzroy Falls and Kangaroo Valley. These are pleasant scenic rural roads with a mix of riding from big sweeping bends to the tight hairpins on Barrengarry Mountain. Early lunch at the Kangaroo Valley Bakery, purveyors of fine baked goods - highly recommended.Out of Kangaroo Valley via the road over Berry Mountain (it's actually called the Kangaroo Valley Road, pick it up left a couple of Km east of the KV township), brilliant views of the Kangaroo Valley and Shoalhaven, tight twisty road up onto the range and down to Berry township. If you want you could take the turnoff on the top to the mountain to Cambawarra Mountain, take in the view and return the KV Road to descend to Berry. (Berry also has a very good bakery on the left travelling north - couple of doors north of the Berry Stores.)
From Berry, I took Beach Road right just out of the town on the north end. This road goes out to Seven Mile Beach where I turned left through Gerroa and Gerringong and onto the Highway north to Kiama. Spectacular views along the coast, particularly from the Hargraves Lookout at Gerroa - you can see down to Currarong on a clear day. You could take lunch at the Gerroa Boat Fisherman's Club, food hasn't impressed me - but the view is better than from the lookout across the road.
I left the Highway at the first (southern) exit for Kiama, and a couple of Km later turned left onto Saddleback Road for a bit of a blast up the steep winding road to Saddleback Mountain - more views over the coast, Barren Grounds, and the Illawarra escarpment. Coming down from Saddleback, I turned left to Fountaindale Road just outside the Saddleback Reserve gate, more steep twisty roads, but downhill - you could go back up the mountain just to recheck the views or road, whatever. These are STEEP roads and are exhilarating.There is a right turn along this road and eventually left at the terminating tee to head into Jamberoo. Continuing through Jamberoo and left onto the road up Jamberoo Pass for another spectacular twisty road through rainforest up onto the escarpment and along to the Illawarra Highway. The famous Robertson pie shop at this intersection could also be a source of lunch, afternoon tea or whatever.
Left at the pie shop into Robertson and west a few Km to the Burrawang turn off on the left. Left in Burrawang to Wildes Meadow and Right at the tee to Fitzroy Falls.
From Fitzroy Falls, I retraced the outgoing route to Goulbourn.At Goulbourn I took the Garrundah turn of for a fun ride on a narrow twisting rural road up onto the Cullerin Range, taking the Bredalbane turn off, then to Breadalbane and south on the old highway over the Cullerin Range again to Gunning and back to Canberra via Gundaroo and Sutton villages.About 550Km (less than 60K of highway riding) in all, good way to spend a day!
There are many many variations that you could weave into this trip - the Highlands and Illawarra abound with interesting alternate routes to segments of this trip. Although I did this trip on a Saturday, I prefer mid week. Sunday in KV is VERY busy - it is on the tourist circuit from the big smoke.
Bungendore - Tarago - Goulburn - Marulan - Budanoon - Exeter - Fitzroy Falls - Wildes Meadow - Robertson - Kangaloon - Avoca - Exeter - Bundanoon - Marulan - Goulburn - Garundah - Breadalbane - Gunning - Sutton
From Canberra head out to Yass and south on the Hume Highway. Turn right at the Lachlan Valley Way and go to Boorowa. In the Boorowa shops, take the right turn to Crookwell. About 10Km out on the Crookwell road, turn left to Frogmore and Wyangala Dam. At the end of this road, take the left turn to Wyangala, and later a right turn to Wyangala. Cross the Wyangala Dam and head north to Woodstock. At Woodstock, you could turn around and retrace your steps, or as I did, go out onto the Highway and return via Cowra to Boorowa and then retrace the outgoing route.
The roads from Boorowa to Woodstock are low traffic rural roads with plenty of curves and the odd surprise. Road surface is sometimes rough, a couple of water crossings on the Frogmore road will launch you from the saddle even at moderate speeds, be careful!
The trip is scenic, covering about 430Km in all. There are various tourist attractions on-route, including Wyangala Dam and the Japanese Gardens at Cowra.
Take the Federal Highway (north) out of Canberra. Take the Sutton turnoff about 15Km north of Canberra and head west out through Sutton and Gundaroo to Gunning. Head north on the old highway from Gunning to Breadalbane. Turn right in Breadalbane, up by the school and head across to Collector. When you get to Collector you could take the Federal Highway back to Canberra (about 160Km total trip), or better retrace your outgoing route for a run of about 220Km.
Take the Federal Highway (north) out of Canberra. Take the Sutton turnoff about 15Km north of Canberra and head west out through Sutton and Gundaroo to Gunning. Head north on the old highway from Gunning towards Breadalbane.
About 1Km before Breadalbane, take the left turn to Garundah. Take a right turn at the next tee intersection (again to Garundah) and climb the Cullerin Range (steep fast climb) to the next tee. Turn right here to Goulbourn (Garundah is to the left... but not too exciting). The first part of this section is twisty narrow sealed rural road, lots of fun but be careful. At the next tee turn right again towards Goulbourn. You will enter Goulbourn from the south west by St Pat's College.
Cross Goulbourn and head out on the Tarago Road to Lake Bathurst (coffee at the B&B or at the Lake Bathurst Conference Centre) and on to Tarago.
The Tarago pub is called The Loaded Dog. The name is from a short story by Henry Lawson, worth a read.
At Tarago, take the right turn in front of The Loaded Dog to Bungendore. At Bungendore, take you choice of the return to Canberra via Queanbeyan or Sutton.
Trip is about 230K from Ainslie, all sealed road, and takes about 2.5 hours plus any time spent in coffee shops. I often do the trip in the other direction, probably a bit more fun between Goulbourn and Garundah but you may be riding into the sun on the twisty bits in the late afternoon.
Take the Federal Highway (north) out of Canberra. Take the Sutton turnoff about 15Km north of Canberra and head west out through Sutton towards Gundaroo. Take the Murrumbateman turnoff (on the left). The run out to Murrumbateman in quite good, mostly open with some sweeping curves.
At Murrumbateman, turn right on the Barton Highway and head out to the Hume Highway. At the Hume, take the Northern entrance and head up over the range. The trip out on the Barton and then the Hume is pretty boring.
Take the left turn to Jerrawa. This is a fun road, narrow (often single lane width overall) with curves and dips with little or no cues for where the road goes when you can't see it. In Jerrawa turn right at the tee to Dalton for good fairly open road with nice sweeping bends. At the main intersection in the middle of Dalton, turn right to Gunning. When you enter Gunning, follow the road in through the village until you read the old highway and turn north. Gunning could be a good spot for lunch. There is a reasonable hamburger place there at the time of writing, but over years I have seen them come and go.
Head north on the old highway towards Bredalbane up over the Cullerin Range. Just before Bredalbane (you will see the few houses in B - it's not big) turn left on the sealed road to Garundah (there is a gravel road to Garundah, pass that one and take the sealed one close to Breadalbane). Just a few clicks along this road you turn right at the tee towards Garundah and again climb the Cullerin Range. This is a great road, but watch for potholes, loose gravel, and parrots that live in the wooded parts. At the tee at the top of the hill, take the right branch to Goulburn. This is a narrow windy sealed mostly single lane country road and is a great run. You will eventually come to another tee where you take the right turn to Goulburn.
Choose how you come home, you could use the Hume / Federal Highways (dull), Tarago (see the other ride descriptions), or if you really enjoyed it, retrace your outward run (or a variant of it like heading to Collector from Bredalbane (short but good) and then down the Federal (dull)).
Distance out and back the same way is 300 - 350Km.
The road from Nimmatabel through Bombala and on the Cann River is a superb mix of open road and hilly winding sections. Overall, the road was in good condition, felt safe to travel on and was picturesque.
Highly recommended.
Distance out and back the same way - 590Km.
The road from Thredbo to Khancoban via Dead Horse Gap and Tom Groggin has been sealed in the Autumn of 2000 I hear.
I set out on this ride with the greatest expectations. I had travelled on this road by car when it was unsealed from Dead Horse Gap to Swampy Plains Creek. At that time it was a poor dirt road with badly corrugated surface, especially in the tight hairpins from Tom Groggin to Dead Horse Gap.
The weather forecast was for late thunderstorms, but that had been the forecast for several days and we had experience hot sunny days with a little wind, temperatures in the mid to high 30s.
So, deciding to "sieze the day", I set out with the option to abandon the Tom Groggin route if weather looked poor at Berridale.
In the event the weather was good, dry and tending hot, but it would become cooler in the climb to Lake Jindabyne and on up to Thredbo.
The run to Thredbo is pleasant, picturesque, still a bit of snow on the tops of the ranges. Quite a bit of car traffic, apparently the mountains are attractive and this is the weekend that starts the school holidays.
The road up to Dead Horse Gap is narrow, a bit unpredictable, and pleasantly leaves the developed resort area behind. Dead Horse Gap is a saddle from which the road descends to the Murray River at Tom Groggin.
From Dead Horse Gap to Tom Groggin, the road is narrow with lots of tight hairpin bends. The road surface was in very poor condition with patches of melted bitumen and large areas with either coarse sand or very find crushed rock spread loosely over the surface. Progress was slow, tedious and very tiring. I often found myself approaching corners slowly with the bike vertical looking for a clean patch of road to execute the turn. I stopped counting rear wheel slips when I got to twenty!
From Tom Groggin along to Swampy Plains Creek, the road was in better condition but I still found surprises (in the form of loose sand) around corners, I just had to treat every corner as having a heap of loose sand on the exit.
The section from Swampy Plains Creek past Geehi and on to Khancoban was ok, but there were lots of roadworks netting the rockfaces to try to limit the effects of rockfalls. Sand wasn't a worry here, but coming around a corner to find rocks the size of half bricks was common, so again discretion needed.
An Alpine Burger with chips and a schooner of squash at the Khancoban Pub was a welcome break from the concentration of riding what was a quite difficult and fatiguing stretch of road. Temperatures from Tom Groggin through to Khancoban were in the mid to high 30s.
Fuelled up, I headed out of Khancoban and up to the cool of Cabramurra then to Kiandra. This section of road is a fabulous run and notwithstanding some loose sand and gravel on the road, was the highlight of the day.
At Kiandra, I took the Snowy Mountains Highway east to Adaminaby for afternoon tea and then back to Canberra via Cooma.
Well, I have done it, but I don't see my self doing it again on a road bike. I love the roads of the High Country, but the patch from Dead Horse Gap to Swampy Plains is a monument to the failure of the national park to provide roads that are maintained in a way that is safe for motorcycles.
Distance was 590Km.
This ride starts out following the route to Woodstock described in the Woodstock Loop. From Woodstock, take the road directly out to the highway (not the northern road marked to Blayney). When you reach the highway, turn right and then left within a hundred metres or so to Canowindra.
This is a gentle run of about 27Km over open gentle curves to Canowindra. The road is generally good, but mind the causeways.
Canowindra township is worth a look, so when you arrive at Canowindra, turn right and take the left turn into the main street about 1 Km later. If you continue through the main street, you will head out of town on the Mandurama road. This is a 45Km trip to Mandurama which is on the road from Cowra to Bathurst. The road to Mandurama is narrow, and at times rough.
At Mandurama, turn right on the highway to head back towards Cowra. About 30Km south of Mandurama you will reach a left turn to Woodstock from where you can retrace the outbound route.
Distance was 520Km.
This ride heads out of Canberra through Tharwa on the road through the Namadgi National Park to Adaminaby. This includes about 40Km of unsealed road.
From Adaminaby, head about 30Km towards Cooma and take the right turnoff to Berridale. These roads are open curves through hilly country around the eastern end of Lake Eucumbene.
Turn right at Berridale and travel about 30Km to Jindabyne. Travel through the township and turn left into Barry Drive for Buchan. A few clicks along, there is a well marked turnoff to the left to Dalgety.
At Dalgety, cross the Snowy River and turn left through the town and take the right turn to Bombala. About 10Km east of Dalgety, take the left turn signposted to Cooma.
Distance was 410Km.
Variation: if you wanted to avoid the dirt road section, take the Monaro Highway to Cooma, then about 6Km south of Cooma turn right towards Adaminaby and take the Berridale turnoff about 25Km later.
From Uriarra Crossing take the road across Swampy Creek up to Fairlight. Turn right on the Mountain Creek Road to Mountain Creek (mostly sealed, but about 15Km of good dirt). You will reach the Wee Jasper road on the terminating branch of a tee intersection, turn right to Yass.
Distance was about 200Km.
From Tarago take the road to Bungonia. It is about 40Km, of which about 30Km is good dirt road.
Total Distance was about 270Km.
The first part of this ride is straight down to Bateman's Bay and then down the Princes Highway to the Cooma turnoff near Bega. Take the right turn and enjoy the curves and scenery up to Bemboka.
Just before Bemboka, take the left turn to Candello for more high speed winding road over cleared dairy country.
From Candello, there are two ways to reach Bombala, the road via Wyndham is a little longer and is sealed, but more importantly travels up over Myrtle Mountain which is a great ride and wonderful scenery - so much so that I turned around and dit it again!
The Myrtle Mountain road joins the Pambula to Bombala road a little east of Wyndham at a tee intersection. Take a right turn and travel through Wyndham and over the mountains to Bombala. This section contains varied riding from open sweeping bends to tight hairpins the the forest section over the mountains. A brilliant section of road that is engaging and the South East Forests are very scenic.
From Bombala, take the road up to Snowy Mountains Highway again and left to Nimittabel and Cooma. From Cooma, the last 100Km is spent watching the speedometer!
Total Distance was about 630Km (I travelled around the beaches from Bateman's Bay to Moruya, so that would add just a few clicks over a more direct trip down the highway).
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© Copyright: Owen Duffy 1995, 2010. All rights reserved. Disclaimer.